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Question: Bud asked if there is anything wrong with buying big things on 12 months same as cash. Dave tells him all the reasons why it's stupid
Dave Ramsey's advice: It's a stupid idea, Bud. First off, if I buy the item with cash, I'll get a deal that is better than the $80 that you'll save. Plus, if you play with snakes, you'll get bitten. If they record your payment wrong and it's late, they'll backcharge you through the entire term of the deal at about 24 to 38% interest. You'll spend the next year and a half cleaning up this mess. It actually happened with one of our clients here. There's all kinds of problems with that!
When someone gives you a better price with cash (as in "5% off or 12 months same-as-cash financing," I agree. But if you have the cash to pay it off all at once, put it aside and don't get a cash discount in lieu of a 0% financing offer, why not, assuming you have the discipline to consider that money already spent?
Back in 2000, we spent $7,000 on a new central heating and air system for our house. There was a "no interest for 12 months" deal in place, which we took even though we had the cash to pay for it on the spot. There was no alternative discount or rebate offer to cash buyers. We took that $7,000 aside -- actually putting it into a separate savings account at our credit union which was not to be touched -- and earned over $300 in interest on it before paying it off in full after 11.5 months. That was a $300 discount that we would not have received if we paid cash.
I would be the first to agree that if someone hasn't demonstrated they can use credit responsibly -- as a tool in their financial "toolbelt" instead of a dangerous weapon to shoot their foot off -- yes, pay cash -- it's not worth the "float" in that case to play with fire. But as a blanket recommendation, I think it's financially suboptimal to suggest that people always, but ALWAYS, pay cash regardless of the situation.
Credit can be a dangerous thing, but that doesn't mean everyone should avoid it at all costs under all circumstances even if they have the cash.
My husband and I were doing well, we were one of the fortunate people whose ancestors had changed thier family tree and we married with a certain amount of financial freedom at the tender age of 21. We decided that we needed a bedframe and found a beautiful one. We have the $700 in the bank account that the frame cost but the salesman told us to put the money in a CD, take the interest, just as you said. We decided this was a good idea. And did it.
Murphy happened. My husband lost his job two months later. We had invested a good portion of our trust fund in my husband's company, which went belly-up shortly thereafter and also discovered that his boss had used my husband's credit to establish credit for the company that was unable to be paid off and we were held accountable. In a crashing economy in Michigan, we were both unable to find full-time employement. We did whatever we could (we have over 24 W-2 and 1099s and the end of the year) but some months we were playing "bill "roulette". The bedframe was WAY down on the list when we were living on Ramen noodles and had the house thrmostat set at fifty-five degrees in the dead of winter in order to pay the heating bills.
Fast forward two and a half years, seven lawsuits and a foreclosure later...We finally got a job (had to leave Michigan to do it) and in the meantime, the debt had grown to over $1900. We ended up settling for over $1300. AND WE HAD HAD THE $700 WHEN WE PURCHASED THE FRAME TO BEGIN WITH.
Don't monkey with "12 Months same as cash". You can't read the future. Don't risk it. We're now in the midst of Baby Step 2 and can't tell you how liberating it feels.
Thank you Dave Ramsey and Team, we'll see you in Indy!
My question is...At what price should I start asking for a discount for paying cash, and how much is reasonable? One would obviously not ask for a discount on a hamburger at Burger King, for example. When do you start getting into discountable territory? $50.00? $100.00? $1,000.00? And what is reasonable to ask for? 5%? 10% More? Less?
Debt free (except for the house) by June '08!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this helps!
Also to the person talking about the 7,000 they had and did the 12 months same as cash cause they got 300 from intrest, well i am here to tell you that if your worried about 300 bucks then somthing is wrong. If you have the money pay for it. I could save 300 in a week and a half.
Just my 2 cents.
their purchase after all was said and done. You need to learn your math- then add your 2 cents.
I asked who was carrying the balance for that period. He named a finance company. I pointed out that being the case SOMEBODY was buying down the note with prepaid interest. He admitted that it did cost hime to prepay the first year's finance charges. I then said, "So this is costing you another 10% off your offer?" He agreed that was true. I said, "Fine! Here's a check for $1800... and NEITHER of us will pay finance3 charges!"
His jaw dropped! But he accepted my offer, took my check,, and delivered and installed the next day.
My point: 90-dyas, 1-year, whatever "same as cash" is Hooey! SOMEBODY is going to pay for the use of that money over the "interest free" period, and it's USUALLY the customer. G
we financed a couple things (lawn mower) on no
payments no interest for 1 year. We planned
to pay for it with income tax,and we did. but
I don't believe I would chance it now that we
have the cash to buy. as far ad discounts I would
also like to know more examples of discounts.
where can you get a discount at? surely you
can't get one at walmart, can you? what about
other big name stores? I know
jewlery and furniture have the biggist mark up
so that would be a good place to start I suppose.
I've gotten them at grocery stores in the past. You will need to buy a "case" of something (not a six-pack of cokes, but a case of soup or canned vegetables, for instance) -- but if you will buy a case that has not yet been "split" out and shelved, the grocer can and most of the time will give you a 10% discount. They're saving money by not having to pay a clerk to shelf an item, and you're saving 10% off something you want to eat. It's a win-win. They won't offer this -- you have to ask the store manager.
That's just one example. I, too, have also used the discount at other "service" type stores.
just don't be rude about it. You can bet the person you're buying from does the same
thing with their "suppliers". Don't be silly and ask for 50% (unless it's jewelry....haha)but know the
product/service and ask for a reasonable discount. As someone said, all they can say is "no", but in
all my experience I rarely get no. We bargain and come to a compromise and both parties win. I get my
deal, and the seller makes a sale. The alternative is walk away from it and find someone who will deal.
a 10-15% discount. It's the hospital. As long
as you offer to pay the full balance (debit
or even credit card) hospitals will give you
the discount. This works on any size bill
even if it's below $100. Just ask if they'll
give you a discount for paying the full
balance.
company. I could transfer balances to the credit card and pay no interest for 15 months. I borrowed the money from my credit union for a truck ($13,000) and transfered it to the card. The credit union pays my bills (recurring payments). I divided the amount into 15 equal parts and had the credit union send the checks. Voila, the money stayed in my money market account at 5%.
I used a credit card to purchase the items (no payts no interest for 12 months).
It was paid off in 8 months, but the anxiety over this was not worth it.
Pay cash and there's no stress!
I bought my wife a baby doll charm necklace and we asked what payment method he perfered. He told us cash
and confirmed what a previos poster said about credit
card companies chargeing him more. He then took about 15 dollars off. so we got 2 kid charms and a necklas
dor 50.00. more recently I was at the mechanic shop going
to get some work done on our paid for van. He told me a brake job would
be 115.00 a fuel filter would be 60.00 and a fuel injection cleaning
would be 89.00. I quickly called another shop and found out they charged 60.00
for the injection cleaning and about 100.00 for the brake job.
I told the guy what i found out and let him know i would be going down the road
if he didn't come off of his price. I ended up getting all 3 service's plus oil
change tire rotation and fluid check for 185 tax and all.
not Rebekah. Tim financed $7000 to save $300. That is roughly a 4.25% savings. I think I would have bargained taking the business
elsewhere. Anyhow, just thought I would reference you to the right posting.
However, a few months ago, we had to go into our emergency fund to pay for new brakes on our Suburban. We had received 2 $25 off coupons from our mechanic at Christmas time. We decided that we would take cash out and see if we could get a discount. At first, our mechanic said that he doesn't do that. Then, he ssaid that he is the boss so, he gave us the 3% that the credit card company would have charged him. We were so excited that we got a total of $68 off our repairs!!!
Never again will we do a "90 day same as cash."
student loan and a $5k BoA Balance Transfer we used to close on our home. The student loan would have been
forgiven if she had stayed working at her first employer for 3 years. The work was soo overwhelming
(she was a state social worker) that we agreed she would find a new job and we would pay back the money.
Mistake #1) To avoid any interest, my father lend us the money to pay off the state. I gave my father a payoff date and sure enough 6 months later he asked us for the money. Life happened during that time so we didnt have it. Once a month he would ask again. I had to take a loan out to pay him off just so he wouldnt ask anymore. That WILL be payed off in Dec 08.
Mistake #2) We made sure to keep up to date with our BoA debt. And wouldn't you know it... the LAST PAYMENT was recorded late!!!!... BY ONE DAY!!!! I paid everything through my bill pay and the "best they would do" was to reimburse half... that cost me a total of $45.00... that bite hurt bad!!!!
Even the most diligent and most disciplined of us will get bitten... The day BoA was paid off we spent two hours on the phone cancelling every single credit and charge card we both had... Interesting (moreless SAD) were the comments on the other side of the phone when they heard we wanted to be debt free and credit card free... Cant wait till 2009... DEBT FREE except for the house! And we will be celebrating in Greece - Turkey... paid for in cash!
What is the point of all this? It is to remind everyone that it never hurts to ask. I would have never thought to do that until I took FPU. I am so thankful for Dave's ministry. My wife and I have around $34,000 in debt to pay off, We will be debt free within the next 2.5 years.
Thanks Dave!!!!
Purchased 1800 square feet of flooring, got 15% off [Home Depot]
Purchased whole house of windows (during 40% off sale) and got extra 15% off (total of 55% off) [Champion Windows]
Purchased new door and counter top materials, got 10% off [Home Depot]
Basically, you can get extra off almost anything at a Lowe's or Home Depot, the store managers can give it to ANYBODY, you just have to ask for it, and have your checkbook or cash out, ready to pay... NOW.
All of these purchases were made with CASH, and the money off was not an option otherwise.
i think $300 earned for a little vigilance is worth it. how can you think it's not? especially when you're willing to call around, shop around for discounts? if it's not, then why bother to negotiate for a discount in the first place?
this would not be for someone who doesn't have a full emergency fund in place. but, if you do and murphy happens, you should still be able to take care of it.
Is anyone getting this type of return from a Mutual Fund, and If so which one?
Thanks
Gear.
When you use a credit card (or a debit run as credit) at a retailer, the retailer has to pay a percentage to the credit card company. For example, if I put $100 on my Visa at Best Buy, then Best Buy keeps $97 and pays $3 to Visa. I think that you should research how much using YOUR cc would cost a retailer and ask for a discount simolar to that. Of course, maybe Best Buy is a bad example because it's a big chain store, but you get the idea :)
a bargaining tool. Today we went to a locally owned furniture store's discount outlet and after
identifying a suitably deeply discounted discontinued bedroom set, we asked for an additional concession.
The sales person "called his manager" and came back with an offer to split the difference. As he was
explaining this, we took the cash out of our envelope. We shook our heads and said that just wasn't
good enough,we'd continue our search, and my husband began to move the money back into the envelope and
into his pocket. The salesman ask if that was the $1000 cash we'd been willing to pay, and when we
responded that it was, he said "the sales manager can beat me up later. Let's do it." And we did!
Cash is king and nothing lights up a salesman's eyes more. Always, always ask for a cash discount on every big ticket item.
My husband went in with cash. He told the mattress dealer that he knew they already had a 10% profit margin built into the price of the mattress because of the coupon he found in the newspaper and as a permanent staple in the back of the yellow pages. The guy was surprised, but he conceded it was true. I had told my husband that we wanted our “out-the-door” price to be under $800, so he told the guy he wanted the mattress set for $750. The man wouldn’t deal. So husband pulled out the cash and told the man we would be willing to take an unmatched set so long as the delivery was free and on the same day. His eyes lit up and he obliged, but said we had to help the delivery guy carry in the mattresses since he was short-handed. No prob. My husband walked out of the dealer with a brand name mattress set for $760 and some change, tax and delivery included. That was, overall, a 30% savings, if you consider sales tax in the city is 9% and we would have been paying $1090 for the set!
It helped that it was a locally owned mattress dealer who was willing to go the extra distance to have customer satisfaction!
Would you pay sticker price for a car? I sure hope not!!
Why the heck would you pay the sticker price for anything else!!
Your're just being ignorant, by saying that somone who gets a deal is commiting FRAUD!!
If I were a betting man I'd say that the stores, dealerships, and Service people out there love dealing
with you!!
The great P.T. Barnum said there's a sucker born every minuet.
I'd have to say that I love lets make a deal, but I must admit I've fallen for the 12 mos same-as-cash
deals too (even though I have the money already in the bank). After seeing the light I think I'm gonna run down to the stores and pay them off!!
cash" is ... CASH!
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
Consider some of the points other people here made. SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a wyear, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. That means that anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing same-as-cash deals, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--intangible benefits, yes, but free marketing.
As commonly accepted as credit cards are, and as common as financing deals are, you should be able to get at least a 5% discount for cash ANYWHERE (for major purchases).
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash--and the VENDOR would likely have been better off if such a deal had been made, as well.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
Consider some of the points other people here made. SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a wyear, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. That means that anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing same-as-cash deals, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--intangible benefits, yes, but free marketing.
As commonly accepted as credit cards are, and as common as financing deals are, you should be able to get at least a 5% discount for cash ANYWHERE (for major purchases).
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash--and the VENDOR would likely have been better off if such a deal had been made, as well.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
Consider some of the points other people here made. SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a wyear, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. That means that anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing same-as-cash deals, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--intangible benefits, yes, but free marketing.
As commonly accepted as credit cards are, and as common as financing deals are, you should be able to get at least a 5% discount for cash ANYWHERE (for major purchases).
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash--and the VENDOR would likely have been better off if such a deal had been made, as well.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
Consider some of the points other people here made. SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a wyear, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. That means that anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing same-as-cash deals, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--intangible benefits, yes, but free marketing.
As commonly accepted as credit cards are, and as common as financing deals are, you should be able to get at least a 5% discount for cash ANYWHERE (for major purchases).
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash--and the VENDOR would likely have been better off if such a deal had been made, as well.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a year, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. So anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--free marketing.
As commonly-accepted as credit cards are, and as common as financing deals are, you should be able to get at least a 5% discount for cash ANYWHERE (for major purchases).
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a year, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. So anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--free marketing.
As commonly-accepted as credit cards are, and as common as financing deals are, you should be able to get at least a 5% discount for cash ANYWHERE (for major purchases).
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a year, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount. Same is true if they're not offering same-as-cash, but are just accepting credit cards--they're likely paying the credit card companies 3-5% of the transaction amount. So anyone who accepts credit cards should be willing to accept a 3-5% discount at least for cash.
Given the even higher costs of financing, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--free marketing.
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash.
Would holding on to that $7,000 and making 4.25% on it ($300), and bearing all the risk for what happens for nearly a whole year, make sense if you could save 10% ($700), or even 5% ($350), making a cash deal?
SOMEONE is paying for the use of that money in the same-as-cash package for a year, and you can be pretty darn sure they're paying more than 4.25% for it. You can likely save the VENDOR money if you pay cash with a 5% discount.
Given the even higher costs of financing, anyone who offers them should be willing to accept a 5-10% discount for cash. If they actually know their business, they will see that this is the SAME deal, except the money is only going between you and them, not to some third party financier. And they earn your good will by giving you the discount while avoiding risk--free marketing.
In other words,the VENDOR would be a FOOL not to deal with you and give you a discount, because he wouldn't understand his own business. And YOU would be a FOOL to play risky games to try to make 4.25% when you could save 5-10%. So Tim's deal was a deal made in ignorance that most likely COST him $50 to $400 had he been willing to negotiate with cash.
Now when I get a similar offer, I just tell them, hey, I have no credit, so I'll never be accepted for your card, BUT I'll save you the trouble running the credit check if you'll just give me the discount. Almost always works.
I simply called me cable company to downgrade my services in order to reduce my monthly bill. My call was routed to the "Retention" department. They gave me a promo discount without taking any of my services away or downgrading. This was in order to "make me happy", he said. I asked how long this discount would last. He said it would last for 6 months. I said "and then what?". He said I should call back in 6 months and do the same thing all over again. With high speed internet and preferred cable TV, we were paying $147.84 per month. Now our total per month will only be $100.18. Just make a call and ask!
I have $2,120 left today to pay off a $10,000 window job which was "12 months free financing" --IF you pay it off in full before the due date. Trouble was that the due date switches before the 12 months were up, and you are supposed to pay it off BEFORE the due date. I paid $843.60 in finance charges even though I paid $3,000 and transferred the other $7,000 to a 0% interest for 18 months credit card deal. I HATE GE Project Line and for falling into the sales trap set by the high-pressure window salesman. While I paid $5,000 too much for 10 windows (3 are still not installed 3 years and 2 months later), I also have been sweating it all out for the last 17 months trying to pay it all off before the July 2009 due date on the 0% credit card so I don't pay another dime to anyone for that purchase.
I took Financial Peace University a year ago, and I know what it will be like to pay cash without the the venomous sting of creditors or falling prey to salesmen; both have bitten me hard. I will be debt-free in August except for my mortgage, and with the extra $625 I'm now able to throw at debt beginning this month, I will be sitting with $3,150 cash by Christmas. I already know what it's like to have a cash Christmas thanks to Dave Ramsey. You can try to make a little savings, or you can learn from Dave Ramsey how to put your whole financial picture in focus.
One more reason to follow Dave's advice in gaining freedom was SATISFYING. This last November, the bank called and said the Overdraft Protection annual fee was going up to $30, BUT each over-the-limit transaction was also going to include an additional $30 fee along with the 18% interest. (You know what the real late payment date for your mortgage is the 16th of each month, but every now and then I'd have the mortgage payment run under the balance). I not worried anymore about overdraft protection and canceled the service. Instead, I took my $1,000 Emergency Fund money and stuck it into the checking account so I don't have to worry about any overdrafts again. Do I worry about money? Not like I used to because of D-A-V-E. I'll pay cash for my 'new' car in December!
7000 @ 4.25% to make 300 off instead of paying cash. First the 300 is
Income. Lets say he is in 25% tax braket. Income tax was $75 leaving him with $225.
Inflation on the 7000 @ 2.8%(probably under what inflation was) is $196
This means to have the same buying power as the 7000 it takes 7196.00 the year after due to inflation
His net advantage is $29 that is a lot of risk of something going wrong for $29 dollars. This looks stupid to me>
our local cable company was offering me a deal to switch. At first DirecTV offered me a so-so deal on a lesser package, but when I told
them I wanted to stay with my current package they gave me a $20 discount on my $56 package (that 36%) for six months and said to call
back at the end of that time to extend the discount. Thank you, DAVE. And to my fellow posters, go for it!!!
Why didn't I do this a year ago?